The Real Reasons Behind Hair Breakage—And Easy Fixes That Actually Work, According to a Trichologist
Heat, stress and even your pillowcase may be behind hair breakage—here’s how to prevent it
Have you noticed that your once lush, flowing locks are now looking drab, scraggly and lifeless? You could be dealing with hair breakage—those pesky little snaps and flyaways that leave strands looking messy, shorter and thinner and feeling rougher, says Kimberly Vaughn, clinical trichologist, hair loss coach and founder of HPIHair Partners in Nashville. Here, Vaughn explains the causes, how to prevent hair breakage and tricks that repair any damage you already have so strands are left looking and feeling their best.
What causes hair breakage? A trichologist explains
Our hair is a powerful expression of who we are, and when it’s strong and vibrant, it boosts our confidence. But life can throw a multitude of challenges our way, from environmental stressors and aging to our styling habits. Understanding the root causes is the first step in learning how to prevent hair breakage, says Vaughn. The top culprits are the following:
Physical damage
Think about your daily routine. “Brushing wet hair, over-brushing or using tight hairstyles can strain the hair shaft, leading to breakage,” explains Vaughn.
Heat-styling overload
The allure of sleek, straight hair or bouncy curls is undeniable. But, the excessive use of high heat via hot tools like blow dryers, flat irons or curling irons strips away essential moisture and weakens the hair’s protective outer layer. This makes hair brittle and prone to snapping. Also damaging? “Continued use of hot water without a cool rinse can dry [out] hair over time,” adds Vaughn.
Chemical processing
Coloring, perming and relaxing treatments can dramatically alter and improve your hair’s texture and appearance. However, these processes involve strong chemicals that can damage the internal protein structure and natural oils of your hair, says Vaughn.
Dehydration
Just like our bodies, our hair thrives on hydration. When hair lacks moisture, whether due to dry environmental conditions or insufficient conditioning, it becomes brittle and loses its elasticity. This dryness makes hair far more susceptible to breakage, Vaughn points out.
Nutrient deficiencies
Healthy hair indeed starts from the inside out. A diet that lacks essential vitamins and minerals like biotin, vitamin D, iron and zinc can impact hair strength and growth.
Environmental damage
Exposure to UV rays can weaken the hair structure, humidity can cause frizz and tangles that lead to rough handling and hard water can deposit minerals that lead to brittle hair—all of these can result in hair breakage, says Vaughn.
How to prevent hair breakage with small routine changes
“Preventing breakage goes beyond aesthetics—it’s about maintaining the health and strength of your hair to ensure it remains vibrant, resilient and growing,” says Vaughn. Thankfully, it doesn’t require a complete overhaul of your routine. Incorporating these simple yet effective steps can make a world of difference:
Use a leave-in product after washing
“Apply light leave-in protective products to the hair after shampooing,” Vaughn advises. This adds a crucial layer of defense and protects the hair shaft. A leave-in to try is Biolage Hydra Source Daily Leave-In Tonic, which is made with hair conditioning and hydrating aloe vera and hyaluronic acid.
Additionally, using a heat protectant product if you’re planning to use hot tools is also important. This creates an invisible barrier over strands that wards off heat damage and in turn hair breakage.
Gently detangle with a wide-toothed comb
When hair is wet, it’s at its most vulnerable state, so it’s key to use the right tools when detangling it, says Vaughn. She suggests swapping your regular brush for a wide-toothed comb, like Drybar The Slider Wide-Tooth Comb, and gently detangle from the ends, working your way up to the roots.
Avoid tight hairstyles and give your hair a break
While sleek, tight hairstyles can look chic, they put significant tension on your hair follicles, which can lead to breakage. Instead, opt for looser styles like low ponytails, braids or buns to minimize stress on hair.
Switch to silk or satin pillowcases
Upgrade your bedtime routine by switching to a satin or silk pillowcase or using a satin or silk hair wrap or hair bonnet, advises Vaughn. The smooth surface reduces friction as you toss and turn. Also smart: “Loosely braid long hair or put it on a soft top-of-the-head pony before bed,” she adds. This further minimizes tangles and potential damage as you snooze.
Be cautious with hot styling brushes
Popular for their two-in-one function, blow-dryer brushes can save you time, but Vaughn cautions that using the styling combination can lead to breakage. “The heat, friction and pulling of the hair is a disaster waiting to happen.” If you must use a blow-dryer brush, she suggests doing so on a low heat setting and avoiding excessive pulling.
Expert tips to fix hair breakage fast
While prevention is paramount, if your hair is already showing signs of breakage, try these targeted treatments:
Hair masks
“Use deep-penetrating treatment masks with ingredients like keratin, collagen or light oils to restore strength and moisture,” says Vaughn. One to try: Nexxus Keraphix Damage Healing Treatment Masque.
Bond-building treatments
“Bond-building treatments like those targeting hydrogen and ionic bonds can help reinforce weakened strands,” explains Vaughn. One to try: Joico Defy Damage KBOND20 Power Masque.
Regular trims
Snipping off split ends prevents the damage from traveling further up the hair shaft, a crucial step in preventing more significant breakage. Vaughn recommends getting trims every 6 to 8 weeks to avoid hair breakage.
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