The Curly Girl Method Changed My Hair—and It Can Transform Your Curls Too, Say Experts
Experts also share the products that help enhance curls even more
If you have curly hair, there’s a good chance you’ve heard of the “curly girl method.” The technique is meant to add definition to curls, reduce frizz and encourage the use of curly-hair-friendly products. It’s been recommended by hairstylists, curly hair pros and online communities like TikTok and Reddit alike, and for good reason—it may just transform your curly hair routine for the better. Speaking for myself here, it absolutely did change the game for my curls. Here, we get into everything there is to know about the curly girl method, including how it works, where it came from and how to try the technique yourself.
What exactly is the curly girl method?
“The curly girl method (CGM) is a technique that works for all curl types and was created to teach you how to work with your hair in its natural form,” explains April Kayganich, Hairstory hairstylist and educator. “Lorraine Massey opened the Devachan salon, which brought CGM onto people’s radar, and released a book detailing the method in 2011.”
Essentially, the curly girl method provides a certain set of guidelines for those with curly hair to follow as a way to style their curls while also keeping them healthy. Learning how to style naturally textured hair can be a challenge, and the curly girl method was really one of the first “rulebooks” out there that could provide guidance.
“The primary goal of CGM is to enhance and maintain the natural curl pattern by minimizing damage and maximizing moisture,” says Michelle O’Connor, a celebrity hairstylist and Global Artistic Director for Matrix. “This involves avoiding certain ingredients and practices that can dry out or damage curly hair, leading to healthier, more defined curls.”
The curly girl method: step by step
As aforementioned, the curly girl method offers a set of guidelines to follow if you have naturally curly hair. We get into each step below, but you’ll see that overall, the CGM essentially comes down to adding moisture and minimizing damage from ingredients and heat.
Step 1: Shampooing
When it comes to cleansing under the guidelines of the curly girl method, O’Connor says it’s all about using sulfate-free shampoos (such as Matrix A Curl Can Dream Shampoo or Hairstory New Wash). Sulfates are known to strip hair of its natural oils, which can cause already-dry curly hair to become even drier and frizzier. Further, O’Connor says the CGM encourages co-washing with conditioner. Both of these will “gently cleanse the scalp,” she says.
The CGM also recommends resetting your hair “by using a clarifying or detox shampoo that is sulfate-free,” says Kayganich. Clarifying shampoos help to rid the hair and scalp of product buildup, sweat, dirt and grime, which can help your curls appear bouncier and healthier.
Step 2: Conditioning
Those with curly hair need all the moisture they can get, as coils naturally tend to fall on the drier side. But you don’t want to grab just any conditioner, according to the curly girl method. Rather, you want to look for conditioners that don’t contain silicones. Silicones can cause buildup on the hair shaft over time, which can damage curls. We like Curlsmith Full Body Milk Conditioner.
Additionally, Kayganich tells us the curly girl method says to “only use your fingers to detangle while the conditioner is in your hair.” This means stay away from a brush or comb when conditioning your hair in the shower. This is key to not disrupting the hair’s natural curl pattern and texture.
Step 3: Styling
Now comes what many with curly hair consider the hard part: styling your curls. One of the key parts of styling curly hair comes down to the products you choose. The curly girl method recommends using products free from harsh ingredients and chemicals.
“Curly girl method-approved” hair products are free from sulfates, silicones, drying alcohols and mineral oils, O’Connor and Kayganich tell us. Some curly girl method products to try are Ouidad Curl Quencher Hydrafusion Intense Curl Cream and Hairitage Ahead of the Curl Curl Creme.
As far as how to apply your products the curly girl method way, O’Connor says to “apply to wet hair using techniques like ‘squish to condish’ or finger coiling.” “Squish to condish” involves applying your conditioner to wet hair in the shower in a scrunching or “squishing” motion. Then, you can either fully rinse out the conditioner or, what many recommend, only partially rinse it out, leaving a little in for extra moisture for your curls. Finger coiling is just what it sounds like, using your fingers to help “mold” or form your curls.
Another curly girl method styling technique is to apply your curly hair products while in the shower to your wet hair. Whereas you may typically get out of the shower, dry your hair partially with a towel and then apply your products, the curly girl method skips the drying part in between. “All curly girl-approved products are water soluble,” says Kayganich, so applying them to wet hair helps define curls and keep them hydrated.
Step 4: Drying
The curly girl method is all about using as little heat as possible, a.k.a. it encourages air drying your curls rather than reaching for the blow dryer. However, it is okay to blow-dry your hair with a diffuser on low heat. “If you have a great blow dryer and the best protection possible, you will be just fine and your scalp will thank you for not letting it sit in a wet state for hours,” says Kayganich.
And when drying your hair with a towel, don’t reach for a regular bath towel, says the curly girl method. Instead, use a microfiber towel, a gentle type of hair towel, to prevent frizz and damage. Try Voesh Absorbent Hair Towel and Scrunchie Set.
Things to keep in mind before trying the curly girl method
It’s important to note that not every method or technique is going to work for everyone. You may have curly hair, but that doesn’t mean every step of the CGM is going to work for you. “The curly girl method has been transformative for many, promoting healthier hair and embracing natural texture. However, it’s essential to tailor any haircare routine to individual needs,” affirms O’Connor. “Some may find occasional use of silicones or heat styling beneficial when done correctly.”
Kayganich agrees that you don’t need to follow every “rule” of the CGM. “I also wouldn’t reach for some of the products that are on their list, but all in all, it teaches people the most helpful but basic knowledge for caring for curls, and that is to hydrate the hair properly,” she says. “It’s a great reference for someone just starting out to embrace their natural hair.”
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