At-Home Keratin Treatment Gets You Silky, Shiny Hair for Hundreds Less Than at the Salon
See how the protein can create smooth, frizz-free hair
We’ve all dreamed of having the silky-smooth strands we see on hair care commercials (we’re looking at you, Pantene!). It’s almost as if the women’s hair is coated in a magic potion to make it so soft and luscious. Well, it may not be a magic potion, but there is one ingredient that works essentially like magic to create the hair of your dreams like you see in those commercials: keratin. Once reserved just for salons, keratin treatments can now get you smoothed-out strands at home. Here, hairstylists share the scoop on all things keratin, plus how to do an at-home keratin treatment for silky-smooth hair.
What is keratin?
As its name suggests, the superhero ingredient behind keratin treatments is, well, keratin. Keratin is a type of protective protein our bodies produce naturally that appears in our hair, skin and nails, explains Madison Roulan, hairstylist and co–owner of Rule On Salon in New York City. “It’s basically a structural building block—roughly 90% of your hair is made up of the stuff,” she says. “When keratin protein is added to hair care products, like shampoo or conditioner, it creates long-lasting protection against damage.”
Even more, keratin is extremely helpful when it comes to making strands tough and mighty. “Factors like heat, coloring, etc. can strip keratin from the hair, which causes frizz and dryness,” says Jennifer Korab, a celebrity hairstylist and colorist, and Educator and Founder of Renaissance Salon & Spa. Just like how if you want stronger muscles, you should eat more protein, the same is true for your hair. So if you want stronger, more durable hair, it needs more protein, which you can get in the form of keratin.
Unfortunately, our bodies produce less keratin with age, which is why hair becomes weaker and drier. Thankfully, keratin-infused products and treatments can help strengthen and nourish strands so they look more youthful, too. This is especially good for those with gray strands that tend to be extra dry and coarse. Keratin treatments are “great for smoothing out that coarseness and leaving the hair super soft,” notes Brian Bassi-Smith, a hairstylist at Damian West Salon in New York City.
What is a keratin treatment?
“A keratin treatment is a popular chemical-based treatment that aims to recover the elasticity, luster and health of hair,” says Roulan. These treatments can actually alter the chemistry of your strands, resulting in hair that looks straighter and smoother. Or if you have curly or wavy hair, the treatment will result in a much more relaxed texture and less frizz.
The purpose of an at-home keratin treatment or professional keratin treatment is to “smooth out frizzy, damaged or dry, processed hair,” says Bassi-Smith. Essentially, the keratin causes your hair cuticle to relax, resulting in the overall texture of your hair to relax.
Before you try a keratin treatment, it’s important to know how they work. “Keratin treatments coat the hair cuticle with a blend of ingredients designed to strengthen and prevent frizz. These formulas typically include hydrolyzed keratin proteins to repair and fill in gaps along the hair shaft, along with conditioning agents like amino acids, silicones or nourishing oils to boost shine and manageability,” explains Korab. “Many traditional treatments also contain aldehyde or formaldehyde derivatives, which help seal the keratin into the hair using heat.”
Formaldehyde itself is not an ingredient found in keratin treatments, but the release of formaldehyde (a gas) from these other ingredients can cause irritation. That’s why it’s best to consult with your stylist before trying a salon or at-home keratin treatment.
There are keratin treatments that are made without formaldehyde-emitting ingredients, but results vary from traditional keratin treatments. These ingredients include dimethicone and other types of proteins, such as wheat protein and soy protein. Regardless of the type of keratin treatment you go for, after the formula is applied and processed, it’s rinsed out and a flat iron is used to seal in and activate the treatment. The result? Silky, shiny tresses.
Potential risks of a keratin treatment
It’s important to note that the exposure to formaldehyde can pose certain health risks during heat application, Korab warns. Further, there is a chance that your hair’s natural texture will change. “Overuse of keratin treatments can also lead to dryness over time, and they may change your natural curl pattern,” Korab affirms.
Which hair types work best for at-home keratin treatment
You can try an at-home keratin treatment if you have straight, curly or wavy hair. However, it is not typically recommended for those who have very fine hair, says Bassi-Smith, as the protein can be too heavy for fine hair, therefore doing more damage than good. The heaviness can also lead to already fine hair looking less voluminous: “If your hair is on the extreme, fragile or thin side, you might want to avoid getting a keratin, so it doesn’t get too flat,” says RaeAnn Cotto, hair technician at NYC THE TEAM hair salon founded by Michelle Hong.
Plus, too much keratin for anyone, regardless of hair thickness, can cause more harm than help to hair. “Just like protein treatments, too much keratin can cause the hair to become brittle and hard, leading to breakage,” warns Bassi-Smith.
Keratin treatments are typically best for those with textured, curly and/or frizzy hair. This is because, as aforementioned, keratin smooths hair’s cuticle and nourishes strands at the same time.
How long does an at-home keratin treatment last?
Professional keratin treatments will likely last longer than an at-home keratin treatment, but both can last up to a few months. “Keratin treatments last three to five months, depending on how often you shampoo your hair,” says Cotto. “The ideal number of shampoos is one to two shampoos per week. The most important keratin treatment that you get is the one right before summer to ensure a frizz-free summer!”
How to do an at-home keratin treatment
While the pros we spoke to advise getting your first keratin treatment done professionally at a salon to ask questions and watch the proper technique, you can DIY it at home if you choose. And doing so can save you big as the cost ranges from $82 to $400. Keep reading for how to easily do an at-home keratin treatment.
While we get into each step in more detail below, Korab says, “At-home keratin kits are available and can be effective if done carefully. Look for formaldehyde-free options, apply it after clarifying the hair, then blow-dry and flat iron to seal it in. Always follow with sulfate-free shampoo to help maintain the results.”
Step 1: Wash hair
Before you apply any of the treatment to hair, give it a good wash. Use your favorite shampoo and conditioner. We recommend using a clarifying shampoo, like Redken Hair Cleansing Cream, which works well if you use a lot of styling products daily, which can cause buildup.
As far as what to avoid during this step? “Anytime you’re doing a keratin treatment—whether it’s in the salon or at home—you want to avoid massaging the scalp when shampooing,” advises Bassi-Smith. This causes “the pores [on the scalp] to open, which can lead to an itchy or burning sensation during the keratin application process.”
Step 2: Apply the keratin treatment
Next up is the star of the show, the keratin treatment. Instructions for this step will vary from brand to brand and product to product, so it’s important to thoroughly read through the instructions on your specific product’s packaging. However, typically, you apply the treatment to damp hair and leave it on for 20-30 minutes (or sometimes even up to 40 minutes).
It can also depend on the thickness of your hair for how long the treatment stays on. For example, if your hair is coarser and denser, it may require extra leave-on time compared to finer hair. Also, some products suggest to blow dry vs. towel dry your locks before you go in with the treatment, which is another reason why reading the instructions is important.
When applying the keratin treatment to hair, divide it into equal sections and evenly coat strands. It’s best to start at the root and work to the ends to ensure the treatment evenly coats hair.
One at-home keratin treatment Korab recommends is Keratin Research Brazilian Keratin Hair Straightening Complex, which comes with a DIY keratin treatment and clarifying shampoo. Bassi-Smith likes Novex Brazilian Keratin Max Concentrated Liquid Keratin because of its concentrated formula and low cost. He says to use it once a week for the first three weeks, and then you can switch to just once a month application to prolong the results.
Step 3: Rinse hair
After your 20-40 minute timer goes off (depending on your hair type and instructions), it’s time to rinse out the treatment. Once completely rinsed out, you can move on to the next step, or for extra moisture, apply a deep conditioning mask (we like The Root Project Power Smooth Extreme Softening Hair Mask and Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair Deep Conditioning Hair Mask) during this step and let it sit another 5-10 minutes before rinsing.
Step 4: Seal in the treatment with heat
Once the treatment and deep conditioner are rinsed out, blow-dry strands until completely dry. Then, run a flat iron over strands carefully and concisely to seal in the keratin and its hair-smoothing benefits. The heat will activate the keratin and other ingredients in the treatment, so this step is essential. Once hair is completely straightened, comb through to eliminate any tangles.
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